Mongolia 8/26/2019 -- 9/4/2019 [Mongolia Gallery] [Back to Photo Page]

Mongolia is the second-largest landlocked country (behind Kazakhstan) in the world.  Its area (1,564,116 square kilometres (603,909 sq mi)) is roughly equivalent with the historical territory of Outer Mongolia, and that term is sometimes used to refer to the current state (and when we refer to our old history books). It is sandwiched between Russia to the north and China to the south, where it neighbors the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.  Mongolia is a marvelous country where you can witness an exceptional merger of the ancient culture and mother land of Chinggis Khaan. This is the land of blue sky, nomadic life style and untouched wild nature.  Mongolia encompasses a wide range of terrain, with mountains, grassy steppes, and vast flat desert. Most of the north and west of the country is mountainous or hilly grasslands; the Gobi Desert takes up most of the south and the east.

Getting there ...

8/27 (Day 2) ...

• Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar
  Gandan (Gandantegchinlen) Monastery was constructed by order of the 5th Jebtsundamba Khutuktu in 1809, but only one wooden pillar remains from the original temple.  In 1838, it was moved to the current location on Dalkha Hill, and took its current name and became the main religious center of Tantric Buddhism in Mongolia.   In the 1930s, the Communist government of Mongolia destroyed all but a few monasteries and killed more than 20,000 lamas. Gandantegchenling monastery, having escaped this mass destruction, was closed in 1938, but then reopened in 1944 and was allowed to continue as the only functioning Buddhist monastery, under a skeleton staff and strict control of the communists, as a token homage to traditional Mongolian culture and religion.  The fall of the communist system in 1990 in Mongolia led to the end of the restrictions of cult and allowed the monastery resuming its activity.
  The original statue of Migjid Janraisig, made of gold and bronze, was erected in 1913.  The statue was demolished by Soviet troops in 1937 (the debris was supposed to have been used to make bullets during the siege of Leningrad).  After the end of the Communist era, the 26.5-meter statue of Avalokiteśvara was rebuilt in 1996, funded by donations by the Mongolian people.

• National Museum of Mongolia
  The National Museum is a good place to get an overview of Mongolia’s history and culture including nomadic life, traditional costumes of ethnic groups, sacred religious relics, and Stone & Bronze Age artifacts.  Of course, we were particularly interested in the history when Genghis Khan united Mongolia and his descendants conquered the world and established Yuan Dynasty.

• Sukhbaatar Square (or Chinggis Square)
  The square was named for Mongolian's revolutionary hero Damdin Sükhbaatar shortly after his death in 1923. In 2013 the square's name was changed to Chinggis Square in honor of Genghis Khan, considered the founding father of Mongolia, but the original name was restored in 2016.  The center of the plaza features an equestrian statue of Sükhbaatar, while a large colonnade monument dedicated to Genghis Khan (成吉思汗), as well as to Ögedei Khan (窝阔台) and Kublai Khan (忽必烈), dominates the square's north face directly in front of the Government Palace.

• Zanabazar Fine Art Museum
  Zanabazar, born in 1635 in present-day Yesönzüil, Övörkhangai, Mongolia, was the sixteenth Jebtsundamba Khutuktu and the first Bogd Gegeen, or supreme spiritual authority, of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) lineage of Tibetan Buddhism in Outer Mongolia. Zanabazar was declared spiritual leader of Khalkha Mongols by a convocation of nobles in 1639 when he was just four years old.  In addition to his spiritual and political roles, Zanabazar was a polymath – a prodigious sculptor, painter, architect, poet, costume designer, scholar, and linguist, who is credited with launching Mongolia's seventeenth century cultural renaissance (e.g., Michelangelo of Asia).
  The building known as the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts today was built in 1905 as a trade center, the first ‘European style’, two-story building in Ulaanbaatar.  In 1961 the Union of Mongolian Artists used the building for a permanent exhibition and in 1966 it became a museum, renamed the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts in 1995. The museum houses pieces from ancient civilizations and contemporary artists.  As expected there are also many pieces by Zanabazar himself, these include the Five Dhyani (Contemplation Buddhas) cast in 1683.

• Tumen Ekh
  After a lunch at the "Modern Nomads" (traditional Mongolian cuisine with some western touch), we went to see the performance of Tumen-Ekh Folk Song and Dance Ensemble.  The Tumen Ekh ensemble was founded in 1989 and has gone on to win awards across the world.  The ensemble comprises artists who perform all types of Mongolian song, music and dance. They play traditional instruments including the morin khuur (horse head fiddle) and perform Mongolian epic and eulogy songs (including very interesting throat singing), a ritualistic shaman ritual dance, etc. Their performances are highly professional but retain the authenticity and traditions of nomadic culture.  I paid an additional fee to get the permit to take photo and video during the show.

8/28 (Day 3) ...

• Fly to Gobi
  We had an early morning flight (Hunnu Air) at 6:20AM to Gobi (Dalanzadgad) so we had to leave the hotel before 5AM.  When we prepared to board our plane (we needed to walk to our plane), we spot a few advanced Sukhoi Su-30 fighters.  I was surprised to see Su-30 in Mongolia (as Mongolian Air Force does not have any fighter jets), and it turned out to be Russian's aerobatic demonstration team Russian Knights as Russian president Vladimir Puting will visit Mongolia (we did not know that until a few days later when we were back to Ulaanbaatar on 9/3).

• Gobi
  The Gobi measures over 1,600 km (1,000 mi) from southwest to northeast and 800 km (500 mi) from north to south, covering parts of Northern and Northeastern China and of Southern Mongolia.  It is the sixth-largest desert in the world and Asia's 2nd largest.  It occupies an arc of land 1,295,000 km2 (500,000 sq mi) in area as of 2007, and is expanding at an alarming rate through desertification, most rapidly on the southern edge into China, which is seeing 3,600 km2 (1,390 sq mi) of grassland overtaken every year.
  After exited the airport, we immediately felt the rural part of Gobi:  there will be no paved roads for the next 3 days!

• Nomad family with horses
  We passed by a herd of horses, and our guide had a spontaneous plan to talk to the nomad family for us to visit their home.  We were welcome by their warmness and hospitality even it was an unplanned visit.  We were treated with their traditional fermented horse milk and Mongolian milk tofu, but to be honest, I don't think I would like to try them again... :-(   They also happened to do their daily chores of milking horses so we got a good view of how they handle their horses.

• On the way to Moltsog Els sand dunes, it was a vast plain with endless openness.  We encountered many goats, sheep, and camels, and only saw one person (who drove his sheep/goats to a water well to drink).

• Moltsog Els Camel Ride
  We had the plan to visit this camel herder family near the Moltsog Els, which is one of the few regions of the Gobi covered by sand dunes. These magnificent sand dunes are surrounded by hills with willow trees, streams and bushes.  Mongolia is home to 2/3 of the two-humped Bactrian camels in the world. It is a gentle, calm and extraordinary patient animal.  My parents were very nervous about riding camels initially.  But after they got on the camels (with some struggle and effort) and smooth pace led by the guide, we all had a good time to experience the nomadic way of travel.

• Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag
  After lunch at a local ger camp, we visited the flaming, red cliffs at Bayanzag - famous for the first discovery of dinosaur eggs, bones and complete dinosaur skeletons which was first discovered by Roy Chapman Andrews, American expedition in the 1920.  This area is well known for red tall rocks formed as a result of wind and water erosion which look like fire in the middle of the desert from distance, especially in the late afternoon sunshine. As scientists defined it was an inland sea bottom some 200 million years ago.
  The trail became a little bit too steep and slippery so my parents did not go on and waited for us at the top of the trailhead.  This photo is actually a family photo of all four of us (can we see them at the top? :-)).

• Three Camel Lodge
  We checked in the Three Camel Lodge in the late afternoon.  Before getting to the lodge, we detoured to a small town Bulgan for our guide and driver to buy their dinner/supply.  It is a real Gobi town without any tourists.    
  The Three Camel Lodge, a National Geography Unique Lodge of the world, is a remarkable Eco lodge in the heart of the desert that celebrates the traditions of Mongolia’s nomads while seeking to preserve its awe-inspiring surroundings.  Against the backdrop of the Mongolian Gobi Altai mountains, a scattering of felt-covered gers dots the wild expanse of the Gobi.

Woanyu and I hiked up the hills behind the lodge and enjoy the sunset (and a free glass of wine by mistake....).

The dark sky without any light pollution in Gobi is a heaven for astronomy photography.  Tonight was especially perfect as it was a new moon night with cloudless sky. 

8/29 (Day 4) ...

• Sunrise at Three Camel Lodge

• Goat/Sheep/Horse at Three Camel Lodge

• Petroglyph of Havtsgait Rock
  Havtsgait Valley is a site of ancient rock drawings left by early Gobi settlers for more than 15,000 years ago. Hundreds of petroglyphs adorn rocks scattered on the top of the mountain and you will be rewarded with this amazing view after your hike up to the hill.  The trail was too steep for my parents that they waited at a pavilion at the foot of the hill while we hiked up to the top (~15 min one way)
  

• Three Camel Lodge
  We were back to the lodge for a refreshing lunch and a quick nap...
  

• Sand Dunes at Moltsog Els
  We decided to go back to Moltsog Els in the late afternoon so we could have more time to explore the sand dunes on foot.  You have to climb the dunes bare footed to feel the warm and soft sand.
  And then we were told by our driver that the nomad family was going to drive their camels for a drink and we were lucky to got the chance to witness this event as they only need to drink once a week.

• Back to the Three Camel Lodge

8/30 (Day 5) ...

• Sunrise
  
  

• There was some free time this morning, so we got the free bikes from the lodge to ride around to explore our surroundings (my parents got the bikes for some picture time :-)).  It's getting cloudy today so it was perfect to ride bikes without worry any sunburn.  We later found there were also some electrical bikes so we got 2 of them to ride around the lodge with my parents.
  

• We were moving to our next destination,  Gobi Nomad Lodge, for the lunch and for one more night at Gobi.  Along the way we stopped at a big ovoo -- a mound of stones with blue cloth pennants -- for the good luck ritual, which involves adding a stone to the pile and walking around it clockwise three times. Ovoos are often found at the top of mountains and in high places, like mountain passes .  We encountered another nomad family who has to use a truck to carry water from miles away for their goats/sheep as their water well has been dried up already.  They put all animals inside an enclosure and then let them out group by group (about 10 each time) to drink water in a very orderly way...

• Gobi Nomad Lodge
  Gobi Nomad Lodge opened its doors in 2016 and it's new Super Deluxe ger (45m^2) is spacious and nicely decorated (all the traditional furniture inside the ger is fully carved by Mongolian craftsmen) to give you the spirit of Mongolian nomadic dwelling (it might be a little bit "over" decorated in my opinion...).   There is a special ger where it has traditional Mongolian setup and costumes that we can use and take pictures.
  After lunch, we borrowed a bow and arrows that we can play archery, and we found Woanyu is quite talented in archery (as usual like many other sports :-)).

• Yol Valley
  After a short break, we took a drive to explore the Yol valley (Eagle or Vulture valley) cradled in the foothills of the Altai Mountains in the eastern Gurvan Saikhan Range.  This valley is originally established to conserve birdlife in the region, but it’s now more famous for its dramatic scenery in the middle of the Gobi Desert with thick ice almost all year around (as late as July).  We hiked through grassy meadows, small streams, long and narrow valley with sheltered by high cliff walls (but my parents turned back after about 30 min with our guide before we entered the narrower section of the valley). 

8/31 (Day 6) ...

• Leaving Gobi and going to Terelj
  We had an early flight from Gobi back to Ulaanbaatar, and then continued to our next destination, Terelj National Park.
  The scenery along the way was quite different from Gobi:  it's much more green-ish with gentle rolling hills.  We stopped by a supermarket in Zuunmod (about 50km from Ulaanbaatar), and my father was very interested in checking the prices of different daily goods.  We also stopped by an eagle hunter display at the roadside, and with a small fee, we could take pictures with their eagles (but to be aware, these eagles are heavy....).

• Terelj National Park
  After about 90km from Ulaanbaatar Chinggis Khaan Airport (we took the route going around the south of Bogd Khan Mountain because there was too much traffic around Ulaanbaatar city), we reached the Terelj Lodge in Terelj National Park which is one of the most visited national parks in Mongolia. You can see the extraordinary formation of rocks and stones among towering peaks and beautiful scenery.
  

Turtle Rock is the most famous rock formation in the park.  You will be amazed by the size of the rock when you are getting close by.

Ariyabal Meditation Temple is surrounded by scenic mountains with massive rock formations.  The distance between the gate and the actual temple is about 1 km and it is only accessible by walking. To get to the top, you would cross the suspension bridge and climb up on 108 stairs, according to Buddhist prayer beads. This small hike is seen as a ritual to cleanse one’s sins. From the top, you can enjoy the breathtaking view overlooking the Terelj National Park.  We brought two foldable chairs along so my parents could sit and waited for us in a pavilion after walk only the first section of the trail.

• Terelj Lodge
  It was quite cool at night so we had the staff to make a fire in our ger to keep us warm during the night.

9/1 (Day 7) ...

• Morning Hike
  Woanyu and I took a hike to the mountain behind our gers together with our guide and driver just after sunrise.  It was steep but with magnificent views and gorgeous morning golden light.  It took about an hour and we were back in time for a hearty breakfast.
  

• Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) Statue Complex
  The equestrian statue of Genghis Khan was built in 2008 on the occasion of the eight-hundredth anniversary of the foundation of the Mongolian Empire, in honor of its founder, Genghis Khan.  The statue is a 131-foot (40 m) tall statue of Genghis Khan on horseback (the biggest equestrian statue in the world), on the bank of the Tuul River at Tsonjin Boldog (54 km (33.55 mi) east Ulaanbaatar), where according to legend, he found a golden whip.  There is a recreation area with museums, restaurants, and souvenir shops occupying the base structure. From here, you can ascend to the head of the horse with an elevator to have a good panoramic view over the complex area and the scenery beyond.

• HS Khaan Resort
  After lunch at a restaurant in the statue complex, we continued the drive for our next destination: the award-winning HS Khaan Resort Hotel, located on vast prairie surroundings and continuous boundless, extremely peaceful grasslands.  The individual gers/cottages are quaint and luxurious. The spacious suites of 120m^2 (1292 sq ft) are far from rustic and provide guests with all the desired comforts during their Mongolian adventure, including fantastic views of the extremely scenic grasslands and vivid blue sky above.  The horses were roaming freely across the open prairie just right outside the terrace of our gers.
  

9/2 (Day 8) ...

• Morning at HS Khaan
  

• Mongol Nomadic
  After breakfast, we took a little drive at 9AM to Mongol Nomadic Ger Camp for Mongolian nomads show which will show the Mongolian nomadic way of living and traditional customs and culture for the past period. The show demonstrates traditional living way of real Mongolian nomads and breeding and using of five kinds of livestock (yak, goat, sheep, horse, and camel).  We also got the chance to ride on some of these animals to carry us from the parking lot to their gers.  We were served with some warm milk and Mongolian deserts (and their flavors were much "mild" than the ones we tasted in the nomad families we visited in Gobi so they were probably more suitable for tourists).

• Hustai National Park
  We drove to the Hustai National Park in the afternoon.  This area is home to the Mongolian wild horse known as Perzevalski horse (takhi) with unique landscape that features mountain and steppe.   The Przewalski’s horse (aka takhi or Mongolian wild horse) is considered to be the last and only remaining wild horse species in the world (other wild horses such as the American mustang, are actually horses descended from domesticated animals that escaped and adapted to life in the wild). However, it was extinct in the wild by 1969 and was reintroduced back into the wild in Mongolia, China and Kazakhstan in the 1990s.  Reintroduction started only in 1992 by the import of 16 Przewalski´s horses from the Netherlands to Hustain nuruu in Mongolia. During 1992-2000 at five times 84 wild horses from European countries were reintroduced in Hustai National Park. At present 335 individuals of Przewalski’s horses exist in Hustai with 34 breeding harems.
  We waited along with a park ranger who set up a nice monocular to see some wild horses in the distant mountain slopes.  When it was close to the sunset time, they started to move down from mountains to stream for water.  However, a small group of wild horses retreated before they got to the water because there were some people moved in too close to the river band.  Although we did not have the chance to see these wild horses up close, it was still nice to see these animals striving in the wild after such international conservation efforts.

9/3 (Day 9) ...

• HS Khaan Resort
  We enjoyed our last morning at the HS Khaan Resort with another splendid day before driving back to Ulaanbaatar.  Cannot ask for a better view...
  

• Zaisan Memorial
  The Zaisan Memorial is a memorial in the southern area of Ulaanbaatar that honors allied Mongolian and Soviet soldiers killed in World War II.   We had to make a climb of three hundred steps before reaching the monument, and we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the entire city of Ulaanbaatar in the valley below, as well as the Tuul River flowing past the city.
  

• Bogd Khan Palace
  Built between 1893 and 1903, the palace complex consists of seven temples, grouped symmetrically around two courtyards, with exterior painted finishes in bright red, green, blue, white, and gold colors, and the Winter Palace, a two-story European-styled building built by Russian architects.  For about twenty years, the Winter Palace had been serving as winter residence for the eighth Jebtsundamba Khutughtu, who was later proclaimed located Bogd Khan, or emperor of Mongolia.   The palace is the only one left from originally four residences of the Bogd Khan.

• Ulaanbaatar
  We were told that Russian president Vladimir Puting was visiting Mongolia and there will be traffic control in the city today.  It turned out that the traffic in the city was not bad (much better than the first day when we just arrived in Mongolia) and the only road block was when we got to our hotel Shangri-La because Puting was staying at the same hotel!  The hotel lobby has set up security check with X-ray scan just like airports.  We even sit in the lobby for a while to see if we could meet Puting :-)

• We had a late fancy lunch at the nearby Central Tower.  At 17th floor, it has a nice view of the Sukhbaatar Square and Parliament Building below.  After a short break back in the hotel, we got out for our last activity of this trip:  shopping time.

• Fireworks 
  At 10:30PM (I already fell asleep), there were fireworks starting from the Sukhbaatar Square just outside our hotel room (maybe because of Russian-Mongolian celebration).  Woanyu quickly woke me up and we could enjoy the fireworks just right in our room!

9/4 (Day 10) Going Home ...

It's time to travel back home.  We had an early flight that we checked out from the hotel at 6AM to head to the airport.  With a relaxed 3-hour transit at the Incheon Airport, we were back to Taiwan at 5:30PM and concluded another fantastic trip with my parents.  Seeing the vast boundless Mongolian Steppes and Gobi Desert is really a dream come true for all of us.  It was quite an experience to visit real nomad families to learn their lives.  Riding horses, camels, and yaks was another unique experience especially with the endless and wide-open steppes and grasslands as the backdrop.  It was another nice family vacation with my parents that I will treasure forever.

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