South Dakota is an expansive, sparsely populated midwestern U.S. state where
rolling prairies give way to the dramatic Black Hills National Forest.
It is part of the Great Plains. In 1803, the United States purchased the
Louisiana Territory, an area that included most of South Dakota, from Napoleon
Bonaparte. In 1861, the Dakota Territory was established by the
United States government (this initially included North Dakota, South Dakota,
and parts of Montana and Wyoming). In 1874, gold was discovered in the
Black Hills during a military expedition led by George A. Custer and miners and
explorers began illegally entering land promised to the Lakota. Custer's
expedition took place despite the fact that the Sioux had been granted the
entire western half of present-day South Dakota (West River) in 1868 by the
Treaty of Laramie as part of the Great Sioux Reservation. As the southern part of the former Dakota
Territory, South Dakota became a state on November 2, 1889, simultaneously with
North Dakota.
Getting there ...
We continued our Dakota road trip
from Devils Tower (in Wyoming, not in
Dakotas). After a nice ramen noodle lunch (Bokujo
Ramen) at the Rapid City, we
headed to our first destination in South Dakota: Mount Rushmore.
Day 5 (6/24) ...
- Mount Rushmore
The sculpted heads of American presidents (George
Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln) at
Mount Rushmore are no doubt the iconic symbols not only for South Dakota,
but for the whole nation. Gutzon Borglum, the sculptor for Mount
Rushmore, chose these four presidents to represent the nation's foundation,
expansion, development, and preservation. Carving started in 1927 and
ended in 1941. On October 31, 1941, Mount Rushmore National Memorial
was declared a completed project.
- Custer State Park
We drove from Mount Rushmore to Legion Lake in Custer
State Park via the famous Iron
Mountain Road. After the dinner at the lodge restaurant, we headed out to take the
18-mile Wildlife Loop Road. It's truly an amazing wildlife safari
experience: the big herd of bison strolling and relaxing at the open
grassland by the roadside was a dream-like wildlife encounter.
When we got the eastern side of the park, it was already
after sunset and getting darker. We spotted a large group of elks in the
distance and the herd was running across the big open space (video).
Day 6 (6/25) ...
- Wildlife Loop, Custer State Park
We went out early to Wildlife Loop
Road again this morning. When we got to the location where the big
herd of bison was last evening, we were surprised to see an empty field, not
a single bison there. We now realized how lucky we were yesterday.
We drove around the Wildlife Loop Road, and took a gravel side road, and
finally saw a pronghorn (crossing the gravel road in front of us,
video) and a few bison.
- Wind Cave National Park
Established on January 3, 1903 by
President Theodore Roosevelt, Wind Cave National Park was the first
cave to be designated a national park anywhere in the world. The cave
is notable for its calcite formations known as boxwork, as well as its
frostwork. Approximately 95 percent of the world's discovered boxwork
formations are found in Wind Cave. Above ground, the park includes the
largest remaining natural mixed grass prairie in the United States, and is
home to native wildlife such as bison, elk, pronghorn, mule deer, coyotes,
and prairie dogs.
I booked a cave tour (Fairgrounds Tour) at 10:40AM.
This 1.5-hour tour explores both the upper and middle levels of Wind Cave.
Boxwork is abundant along the trail in the middle level of the cave. In the
upper level, the trail winds through the larger rooms where popcorn and
frostwork can be seen. The tour enters and exits the cave by elevator and
there are 450 stairs along the 2/3 mile route with one flight of 89 steps
going up.
The tour took a little bit longer when we were
underground because some rangers were coming down and tried to find 3 reported
missing visitors from other cave tour. We were blocked and waited in
some cave passages before we were cleared to take the elevator up.
We did not hear any update about the search, and we hoped everyone was OK.
After visiting the Wind Cave, we went to the town of
Custer to have a nice lunch (Mt
Rushmore Brewing Company) and desert (Baker's
Bakery & Cafe).
- Jewel Cave National Monument
Jewel Cave is currently the fifth
longest cave in the world and second longest cave in the United States, with
220.01 miles (354.07 km) of mapped passageways as of May 2024. Despite
the close proximity, no connection has ever been found between Wind Cave and
Jewel Cave, and most geologists believe the caves are not connected.
President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Jewel Cave a National Monument on
February 7, 1908.
We took a cave tour (Scenic Tour) at 3:20PM. The
Scenic Tour route provides an opportunity to visit various cave chambers and
passages decorated with calcite crystals and wet formations. It begins in
the "Target Room" and continues from there as a modern day walking tour
along a paved trail with electric lighting. The tour enters and leaves the
cave by elevator in the Visitor Center. During the Scenic Tour, you
will see two types of calcite crystals known as nailhead spar and dogtooth
spar, which are the "jewels" of Jewel Cave. In addition, you can view
boxwork, cave popcorn, flowstone, stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, and a
long ribbon drapery called the cave bacon.
Day 7 (6/26) ...
- Needles Eye & Cathedral Spires
This morning we drove from Legion
Lake to Sylvan Lake via the famous Needles Highway. The Needles
Highway is more than a 14-mile road—it’s a spectacular drive through pine
and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen, and rugged
granite mountains. We went to the Needles Eye and passed through the
tunnel twice when there were not many cars yet, and hiked the 1.6-mile trail
winding through beautiful pine forest before reaching a rocky outcropping
that leads you to an up close look of the Cathedral Spires. Then we went
through Needles Eye tunnel again (this time we had to wait for a few minutes
to get through due to more traffic) to Sylvan Lake.
- Mount Rushmore
After the early lunch at Sylvan Lake, we decided to
go to Mount Rushmore again because the weather today was much better and
there was a blue sky for better pictures of Mount Rushmore (and the parking
permit was still valid).
- South Dakota Air and Space Museum
Located just east of Rapid City and
outside the main gate at Ellsworth Air Force Base, the South Dakota Air and
Space Museum boasts an extensive collection of artifacts and documents that
capture the distinguished history of Ellsworth Air Force Base, the 44th
Strategic Missile Wing, and the 28th Bomb Wing throughout the Cold War. The
museum includes examples of the B-29, B-52, B-1, and both the Titan I and the
Minuteman, and many more legendary airplanes (such as C-47, B-25,
F-86, F-100, F-101, F-102, F-105, A-7, ....). Although it was hot, I was
excited to get many airplane photos outdoors (while Woanyu was hiding inside
the museum indoors).
Going Next ...
We continued our Dakota trip to our
last destination: Badlands National
Park.
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